Saturday, January 5, 2013

New-School Greens: Mother and Grandmother Approved

My mother and grandmother, classic country cooks that they were, perfected the art of preparing greens. Of course, their old-school method wasn't complete without a ham hock, fatback, or streak-o-lean. I remember those greens well. They were delicious beyond Southern measure.

I was unwilling to give up my greens, but I had to lose the animal fat—without sacrificing flavor. Lots of garlic and red pepper flakes more than make up for what’s missing, and braising (simmering in a small amount of liquid) intensifies the rich flavors.

I believe my mother and grandmother would approve.

Spicy Braised Greens

2-3 bunches of greens (I prefer collards), washed and chopped
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
1 small white onion, sliced
4 garlic cloves, sliced
¼ - ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Chicken stock

Balsamic or apple cider vinegar (optional)

Stem and wash greens thoroughly. Place greens on a cutting board, blot dry, and chop.

In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Season with kosher salt, and sauté for about 5 minutes. Add greens, and mix together for a few minutes until greens begin to wilt. Add 1 cup of chicken stock to skillet, and salt to taste. Cover partially, and reduce heat. Simmer for about 1 hour (or to desired tenderness), stirring occasionally so greens cook evenly. Add a bit of stock from time to time when skillet begins to dry out.

Adjust seasoning, and serve with vinegar, if desired.

Note: Freeze leftover cooked greens—or freeze stemmed, rinsed, chopped greens for cooking later.